The Handloom Industry of Bangladesh: A History of Tradition and Evolution
 

One of the most notable periods in Bangladesh's industrial history is the handloom weaving. Bangladesh's handloom industry has gained international recognition since ancient times. This craft helped the Bengal region—and Dhaka in particular, gain prominence. Weaving achieved extraordinary heights throughout the Mughal and Sultanate periods. In Bangladesh, the handloom sector has historically been the oldest and biggest. The carriers and guardians of our legacy are the handloom sector and its weavers. Our nation's culture closely entwined with this craft.

The handloom industry in Bangladesh has a tangled history of development, but its ancient roots are undeniable. Bengal's handloom and textile industries were noted in the writings of the great 19th-century researcher James Wise, the Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Xuanzang from the 7th century, and the well-known explorer Ibn Battuta from the 13th century. These allusions imply that Bengal's handloom industry is very old, reflecting our heritage, culture, and customs that date over thousands of years.

The exact origins of the handloom industry remain somewhat obscure. Historical records suggest that the early Basak community's weavers were the original craftsmen. These individuals, primarily nomadic, have been weaving since ancient times. The people associated with this garment industry are known as 'tantubay' or 'weavers.' Initially, they resided in the Indus Valley basin but moved to Murshidabad in West Bengal due to natural calamities and later to the Rajshahi region. From the history of the handloom industry, it is known that weaving has been practiced in Manipur for a long time. Manipuris primarily wove fabric to meet their clothing needs, and their woven products later became very popular in Bengali society.

During the pre-British era, the handloom industry, although a cottage industry, played a vital role in both local and foreign trade. The weavers carved out a special place for themselves using the talents passed down through the centuries. It is stated that Muslim weavers were referred to as Jola, and Hindu weavers went by the basic term Basak. The handloom industry was expanded by weavers from many locations, including Rajshahi, Tangail, Sirajganj, Kishoreganj, Narsingdi, Dhaka, Narayanganj, Comilla, and others.

Our handloom business, which has long been a part of our history, is highly valued both nationally and internationally. Historically, handlooms in different parts of the country used the fine thread made from the footicarpus plant that was growing nearby to weave textiles. These weavers have unique qualities; they are the descendants of the Mughal and Sultanate dynasties. Fine cotton textiles, jamdani, and muslin were previously manufactured by their ancestors. From the Delhi Mughal court to the British royal house, muslin was renowned. Bengal's status has increased globally thanks to its well-known muslin. The historical jamdani of Sonargaon in Narayanganj, Rajshahi silk, Tangail sarees, Comillakhadi, Sirajganj lungis and gamchas, Mirpur Benarasi, and the other handloom items are still produced today.

Aloom is a special type of machine used to produce fabric from cotton or thread derived from cotton. Various types of looms can be seen in Bangladesh, ranging from small portable looms to large ones, as well as the waist looms used by Manipuris and other ethnic groups. Generally, threads are tightly wrapped in bundles on the loom. When the loom is operated, the thread is pulled according to a specific design. The techniques of the loom vary depending on its size and type. In the Bengal loom, pulling the lever moves the spindle, wound with thread, horizontally. The rhythmic clicking sound of the spindle can be heard day and night in the weavers' neighborhood. Every family of weavers owns a spinning wheel, and all family members, including sons, daughters, and women, are skilled in spinning and weaving fabric. With deep concentration and dedication, the weavers work day and night to produce intricate and delicate fabrics. Skilled artisans create various types of cloth, including sarees, lungis, gamchas, khes, mosquito nets, and bedspreads. Typically, men weave the cloth, while the women assist by spinning yarn, dyeing, and performing other tasks. The weavers infuse their creativity into designing various patterns and motifs. This ancient craft requires knowledge, devotion, and an artistic mind. Each weaver is an artist, which is why our handloom industry is so renowned.

Since ancient times, Sirajganj sarees have been a part of our history, culture, and heritage. These sarees have been made by talented Sirajganji weavers for many years. The sarees of Sirajganj and Tangail are mentioned in the travelogues of Xuanzang and Ibn Battuta. It is unclear exactly when weaving in Sirajganj and Tangail started, but saree-making is still a tradition in both areas. These sarees have been woven by the Basak community's weavers for thousands of years. These weavers use cotton thread to create comfy, attractive, and elegant handloom sarees. These sarees' primary characteristic is the embroidery on the edges and borders. Nonetheless, the 1990s saw a number of notable modifications to the saree industry. In this period, sarees made of soft silk and half-silk grew increasingly

The handloom industry plays an immense role in Bangladesh's national economy. Handlooms produce approximately 700 million meters of fabric annually, meeting about 40% of the domestic demand. The industry generates around 15 billion BDT in value-added tax. Bangladesh's handloom industry is the largest cottage industry in the country. According to the 2003 government handloom census, there are currently over 500,000 handlooms in the country. The handloom industry supplies nearly 75% of the total fabric demand in the country and directly employs about 5 million people. In 2009, Manipuris began exporting their fabrics to the United Kingdom, generating 2.2 million BDT, which increased to 3.1 million BDT in 2010. In 2012, approximately 5 million BDT worth of Manipuri fabric was exported to the UK.

Even with the introduction of electrically powered power looms, which have revolutionized the handloom business by fusing handlooms with power looms, several obstacles still exist. The manufacture of high-quality clothing that satisfies contemporary needs is hampered by rising costs for thread, dyes, and chemicals; anomalies in marketing; a shortage of qualified labor; inadequate designs; and a lack of cutting-edge technologies. Fashionable, beautiful clothing is hard to make if handloom workers don't receive timely instruction. Furthermore, the matter of capital continues to be a noteworthy worry. There is little government assistance for the handloom sector. Owners of handlooms are forced to turn to high-interest loans from unofficial lenders since there are no significant government loans available. Lack of funding has already caused many handlooms to close.

A difficult test lies ahead for the handloom sector in this age of globalization and growing mechanical aggression. Business planning, appropriate support, and public-private collaboration are required to overcome this. Reviving this historic business will require raising the caliber of regional handloom fabrics, offering advanced training and professional education, and keeping up with contemporary fashions. The 'Bangladesh Handloom Board Act 2013' has the potential to significantly contribute to the growth and advancement of this sector. Reusing the historic designs of Bangladesh's handloom industry is a project being worked on by several institutes. It is possible to improve the standing of the domestic handloom sector in this unfair competition by encouraging public love, emotion, and awareness for regional textiles. Assisted by the public and private sectors, weavers' efforts, and textile

Citation:        jugantor.com

                   bn.wikipedia.org

              textileengineers.org

                bonikbarta.net

              tahitybangali.com

 Prepared by: Md. Jahidul Islam| Digital Marketer

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